Community
Talk paint, interiors, builds and shops with the restomod community.
A paint code is a shorthand that tells a supplier exactly which pigments and toners to mix to reproduce a color. But not all codes mean the same thing. - OEM codes (e.g. Ford's 'E9, M6482A') reference a factory formula in a database like PPG, Axalta, or BASF. - Supplier codes (e.g. House of Kolor 'BC25') reference a specific off-the-shelf product. - Variant codes account for factory variation — the same code can look slightly different year to year. When matching an existing finish, always spray a test panel and let it cure before committing. Color shifts as it dries, and metallics 'flop' differently depending on spray technique. If you're going custom, you don't need a code — but documenting your formula (brand, toners, ratios) means you can touch up or respray later without guessing.
Everyone knows the Mustangs, Camaros, and Chevelles — and their prices reflect it. Here are some great-driving classics still flying under the radar: - 1970-77 Ford Maverick / Mercury Comet: light, cheap, V8-friendly. - 1975-79 Chevy Nova (not the II): LS-swap darling, still reasonable. - Datsun 240Z/260Z: rising fast but not yet 911-money. - AMC Javelin: rare, distinctive, and still affordable. - 1968-72 Oldsmobile Cutlass: luxury feel at Chevy prices. The best 'underrated' car is one you'd enjoy owning even if it never appreciated. Buy the body, not the badge.
Seat foam is what makes a car comfortable — the leather on top is just the finish. Most restomod seats use a two-layer approach: - Firm base foam (high-density) for support and shape retention. - Softer comfort foam on top for cushioning. Too soft and you bottom out on long drives; too firm and it beats you up. A common restomod upgrade is molded foam kits shaped to match classic buckets, which hold their form far better than cut-and-glued foam. If you're reusing old foam, squeeze test it: if it doesn't spring back instantly or has crumbly edges, replace it. New foam over old springs is one of the highest-comfort-per-dollar upgrades you can make.
Restomods almost always cost more than expected. A rough, honest split for a mid-quality driver-level build: - Bodywork & paint: 35-45% (the biggest line, and where corners show) - Drivetrain (engine/trans/rear): 20-30% - Interior: 10-15% - Suspension, brakes, wheels: 10-15% - Electrical, glass, trim, misc: 10% Add a 20-30% contingency on top — you will find rust you didn't plan for. The biggest budget killer isn't parts, it's labor — especially body and paint. If you're paying a shop, get a written quote with milestones. If you're DIYing, your time is still a cost; budget years, not months. Decide upfront: driver, show, or pro-touring. Each tier roughly doubles the one below it.
Classics are loud — road, engine, and wind noise all come through thin sheet metal and minimal insulation. Sound deadening fixes this in three layers: 1. Constrained-layer dampener (butyl + aluminum foil): applied to large flat panels to stop vibration and resonance. Doors, roof, floor, trunk. 2. Closed-cell foam: decouples the panel from the cabin, blocking transmitted noise. 3. Mass-loaded barrier or thermal liner: adds mass to block sound and reflects heat. You don't need full coverage — 25-40% of a panel with dampener stops most resonance. Overdoing it just adds weight. Doors give the biggest improvement per dollar. Floor and roof next. A quiet cabin makes a budget stereo sound like a premium one.
They sound similar but aim for very different cars. - Restoration: return the car to how it left the factory. Correct paint, correct interior, numbers-matching drivetrain. Best for rare or historically significant cars; value depends on authenticity. - Restomod: keep the classic look, upgrade the mechanicals — modern engine, better brakes, improved suspension, upgraded interior. Best if you actually want to drive it regularly. A pure restoration is usually more expensive and driven less. A restomod is more usable and personal, but purists may value it less. There's no wrong answer — but decide before you spend, because the choice drives every downstream decision (drivetrain, paint, interior, budget). Flipping mid-build is the most expensive option of all.
A good paint shop is happy to answer these. A vague answer to any of them is a warning sign. 1. What's included in the quote — and what's extra? (jambs, underhood, color sanding) 2. How many coats of clear, and do you cut and buff? 3. What primer system do you use, and do you block-sand? 4. Can I see a recent job in person, not just photos? 5. What's the payment schedule, and what triggers each milestone? 6. How long is the warranty against lifting, peeling, or fading? 7. What happens if I find rust after teardown? Get every answer in writing. The shop that won't put it on paper is the shop that will charge you for 'extras' later.
GM cars from the 60s-70s carry a trim tag (or cowl tag) separate from the VIN that encodes how the car was originally built. It's gold for verifying authenticity. A typical Chevy tag includes: - ST: style number (series + body style) - TR: trim code (interior color/material) - PNT: paint code (exterior color) - ACC: accessories (e.g. A/C, power windows) - BODY date code: when the body was built The paint code here is the factory exterior color — cross-reference it against a GM paint code chart for the year. The trim code tells you the original interior, useful if you're restoring to spec. Note: tags can be re-riveted or reproduced, so they support but don't replace a VIN and title check. For numbers-matching restorations, they're essential.
The three most popular modern engine swaps, in short: - LS (GM): the default. Cheap, abundant, tiny exterior, massive aftermarket. Easiest to install and wire. The 'small block Chevy of the 21st century.' - Coyote (Ford): more power stock, loves boost, but physically wider and taller — tight in older engine bays. Wiring and controls are more involved. - Hemi (Mopar): great for Mopar bodies where brand loyalty matters. Heavier, pricier, smaller aftermarket than LS. Practical advice: pick the engine that fits your chassis and your budget for the whole package (engine + trans + mounts + exhaust + ECU), not just the long block. An LS with a standalone harness and a 4L60/4L80 or T56 is the lowest-friction path for most builds. Whatever you choose, plan the cooling and fuel system up front — they're where swaps quietly get expensive.
If you're new to custom paint, the jargon can be overwhelming. Here's a plain-English breakdown of how a modern paint job is layered. 1. Bare metal or primer: the foundation. Any rust or filler work happens here. 2. Epoxy or etch primer: seals the metal and gives the next layers something to bite. 3. High-build primer (2K): block-sanded smooth to remove imperfections. 4. Sealer: a uniform base so the color lays down evenly. 5. Basecoat: the actual color. Can be solid, metallic, pearl, or candy. 6. Clearcoat: the protective gloss layer. Multiple coats, then cut and buff. Custom finishes (kandies, colorshifts, flakes) add steps between base and clear. Each layer needs proper flash time — rushing it causes solvent pop and adhesion failures. The single biggest factor in a great paint job isn't the product — it's the prep. A cheap paint over flawless prep beats premium paint over rushed prep every time.
Dream scenario: unlimited budget, one car. What is it and what would you do to it? Mine would be a 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 — modern Coyote drivetrain, deep burgundy metallic, full black leather with baseball stitch. Go.
This is the brag thread. Post your in-progress or finished build — year/make/model, what you've done, and photos if you have them. We want to see bare-metal progress shots, paint booth reveals, and finished interiors alike. No project is too small.
Swaps are exciting but expensive. Before you cut anything, think about: - Motor mounts and crossmember fabrication - Transmission tunnel clearance - Fuel system (return vs returnless, pump capacity) - Cooling (radiator, fans, shroud) - ECU/standalone harness - Exhaust routing and steering clearance - Insurance and inspection legality in your state What swap are you planning, and what's caught you off guard?
Both are legends in custom paint. House of Kolor is known for kandies, pearls, and colorshifts. Wecso (West Coast) is favored by many for solid coverage and supplier support. Who's sprayed both? Which did you find easier to lay down, and how did the color hold up after a few years in the sun?
No dash VIN? Don't panic — there are usually other stamped locations: - Frame rail (often near the firewall or front suspension) - Inner fender apron (common on classic Fords) - Cowl panel - Original engine block stamping (may differ from chassis) Always confirm the chassis number, not just an engine stamp, since engines get swapped. Where did you finally find yours?
If you run a restomod, paint, or upholstery shop, introduce yourself here and tell us what you specialize in. You can also add a full listing on our Shops directory page with photos, location, and contact info. Keep it to one post per shop so this stays readable.
Choosing a finish and worried about durability? Let's compare: - Gloss: most durable, easiest to buff and repair, shows every imperfection in prep. - Satin: popular modern look, harder to repair without respraying the whole panel. - Matte: striking but finicky — no wax, no buffing, scratches show easily. For a daily driver I'd lean gloss or satin. For a show car, matte can be worth the upkeep. What's your experience with each over time?
New here? Drop a quick intro — what you drive (or want to drive), what stage your build is at, and what you're hoping to learn or share. Example: 'Hey, I'm restoring a 1969 Camaro. Currently stripping the body, trying to decide on a deep blue metallic. Looking for interior leather recommendations.'
Your factory paint code tells you the exact original color so you can match or recreate it. Common locations: - Driver's door jamb sticker (most modern vehicles) - Under the hood on the cowl or radiator support - Inside the glove box door - Trunk lid underside (some GM trucks) The code is usually 2–4 characters next to a 'BC/CC' or 'U' label. Once you have it, a paint supplier can mix the original formula. Where did you find yours? Any tricky ones?
The stitching changes the whole feel of an interior. - Baseball stitch: bold, visible, sporty — great on bolsters. - French seam: clean, doubled, classic and strong. - Diamond quilt: luxury look, common on seats and door panels. Thread choice matters too: nylon is strong and UV-stable; polyester holds color well. Which stitch are you running, and why?
